Buy Monroe 171683 Quick-Strut Complete Strut AssemblyMonroe 171683 Quick-Strut Complete Strut Assembly Product Description:
- Bearing Plate
- Upper Spring Isolator
- Upper Spring Seat
- Coil Spring
- Boot Kit
Product Description
The revolutionary Monroe Quick-Strut unit is the first complete, ready-to-install replacement strut assembly available! Monroe Quick-Strut units include all the components required for strut replacement in a single, fully-assembled unit. They feature pre-assembled replacement bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolators, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and a premium strut. This breakthrough design saves on installation time by eliminating having to disassemble components and compress the coil spring prior to installation. Each Quick-Strut assembly features application-engineered valving to optimize each vehicle's unique ride and handling characteristics
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Good quality, very easy install, no-brainer
By bonair
Installed on 1995 Nissan Maxima. Buying the Quick-Strut assembly is the only way to go. Did both sides in less than 4 hours, total, on driveway with $30 light duty hydraulic jack. (I am old hand at this stuff, so BE VERY CAREFUL when jacking and blocking car. Use only good quality jack stands or solid timber blocks. NO CONCRETE BLOCKS-they can explode and collapse) I used timber block (2 x 8's nailed together in stack) under frame at lower control arm pivot so tire was only and inch off ground. Once car is blocked up, it is only a matter of three nuts on top mount, two big bolts on lower control arm, and a brake hose clip. The top mount needs rotated for studs to match hole pattern in car, but I easily hit the studs on strut top mount with rubber mallet to rotate it. Be careful of brake hose. Cover brake disk with paper to keep crud dropping on it or getting touched by greasy stuff.Car drives like new. The best local price was $200 from Advance Auto. NAPA was $240. Duh? Bottom line: I saved $70 each and didn't have to leave house to get them. Need to plan ahead to get free Amazon shipping because of time. I got mine shipped free in two days with Amazon Prime trial offer.Would be easy 5-star, but the nuts that came with one strut were galvanized and would not thread onto studs without oil. Almost ruined one stud, had to clean thread with die to recover. Other strut was OK. Had factory style plating and went right on.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.98 Maxima. Great so far! Needs better instructions
By Alex Adams
1998 Nissan Maxima GXEUPDATE:Changed a few steps around to better reflect what to do. Doing the right is pretty similar to the left.The strut is a great idea. Everything assembled so all you have to do is:Tools:-Ratchet set plus extra wrench/ratchet to hold other side of bolt (3/8 I think and mainly 3/4 and something small for top nuts)-Torque Wrench (optional, but good to have)-Torch (if it's really rusty on the knuckle nuts)-WD40 or similar lubricant (don't get any on the rotor!)-Punch tool or something similar (to knock bolt out other side if it gives you trouble)-Hammer-Flat pry bar (may come in handy to move strut around if you find yourself stuck just be careful for cv boot)-Pick or similar tool to scratch off rust and grease (small flathead works)Removal:-Take off your wheel (loosen lug nuts before jacking car up!)-Using pliers, remove the brake line retention clip from the strut (just look for the hose attached to the strut. There should be a little piece fitting it in there that looks like a U bent curvey)-Remove the two strut knuckle nuts located at the bottom of the strut (bottom left on amazon picture). I had a very hard time getting these off. Had to use a combination of heat from my torch can, WD40, a pic like tool to scratch away at grime around nuts, and a longer wrench than my ratchet to give leverage.-Do your best to get the knuckle frame away from the strut (the cv joint takes a fair amount of wiggling, just don't hyper-extend it)-Remove top three nuts from under the hood. (DO NOT REMOVE NUT IN THE CENTER OF THE TRIANGLE!!! This holds the coil in place...)-Personally, I had to kick the strut out from off my cv boot (rubber black accordion looking thing). My boot was already ripped so I wasn't worried about ripping it more. This takes some patience and wiggling.To Install:-Put top part in first. I started on the left side of the wheel well and slowly got the top of the strut where it needed to go. This part takes alot of wiggling around to get it in place. I also had to push down on the rotor to get the knuckle over everything.-Now this part is tricky and not even my haynes manual told me this: You have to adjust the studs (the three "Screws" that protrude up and under your hood) in such a way that they line up 60-90 degrees clockwise from where they should be. The best thing to do is look at how the bearing plate (the black flat piece on the top of your new suspension) angles and lines up under your hood (do this before putting it in). Each stud should line up according to height. Furthermore, there should be an "F" near one of the studs that symbolizes the stud that is furthest towards the front of your car. To adjust, get a wrench with a circular end and put it on the stud and move the other end all the way against another stud and rotate it.-After you get the studs in the hole, secure them (helps if you have an assistant on this part) with a good hand tighten. You want them all the way on there to give yourself as much leverage on the bottom as possible.-Using hand strength or whatever you can safely use, move the bottom of the strut so as to line up with the knuckle.-Put bolts back in (I sprayed with lubricant first since mine were so hard to get off in the first place)-Tighten to 46-56 Foot Pounds (pretty much hand tighten to the point where its not moving anymore, just don't overdo it.)-Don't forget about the nuts up top in case you didn't tighten them completely. Same idea.-Put brake line back in with clip. I couldn't FOR THE LIFE OF ME get that clip back on. I was forced to bend the strut piece together so that it kept the brake line metal brushing in place.-Put wheel back on and such.Few tips:-Remember, if this is the first time this has been done, expect to encounter ALOT of resistance due to rust and... Well... 11 years worth of stuff built up!-I always lower my jack down a bit after getting the wheel off. I don't like taking weight off of my back tire.-Have your E-Brake on while doing your fronts. Not sure about the backs.-Try not to grease your rotor up too much. You can always wipe it but remember: that's what your brakes squeeze against.-An assistant is very helpful! the Strut is a good 35 pounds that you have to hold up, move side to side, wiggle, and apply constant pressure to to get the top nuts on. Even the strongest people will get tired having their arms above their heads.-Double Check your work before putting your tire back on.-If you bought for both sides of your car, there's a sticker on the non-amazon box with the model number and a perfect opportunity to mark "left" or "right" on it to avoid confusion. I don't even know if they're different. Better safe than sorry. UPDATE: These models feature an "R" and "L" on the piece that holds the brake line.Good luck folks! Comment here if you have questions!
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.Good strut
By J. Perry
These are excellent easy drop in replacements. No spring compressors needed to remove the old struts on the car or to install these. NOTE: the mount that goes in the top of the wheel well will have to be rotated 60 degrees so the studs line up with the body of the car. One person can hold the spring while another rotates the mount at the top. It's not hard.
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